These checks can be made when buying a bike or maintaining the one you already own.
It probably takes longer to read this than actually do all these quick checks and often the bike will "tell" you something is wrong before you do the check, for example, rattles, wheels knocking on the brake shoes (caused by a broken spoke/ buckled wheel), clunky gears.
A lot of bike maintenance almost involves "getting to know" your bike and its unique characteristics.
If you find something that needs attention you have a choice to go a bit deeper and find out how to take the actions suggested below, or may you feel some tasks seem beyond your ability, so book the bike with a bike mechanic.
But I'd encourage you to have a go first.
There are lots of great resources at www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
You may find what seems to be a serious problem with your bike; if in doubt don't ride the bike until the problem has been remedied or investigated by a more experienced person.
It probably takes longer to read this than actually do all these quick checks and often the bike will "tell" you something is wrong before you do the check, for example, rattles, wheels knocking on the brake shoes (caused by a broken spoke/ buckled wheel), clunky gears.
A lot of bike maintenance almost involves "getting to know" your bike and its unique characteristics.
If you find something that needs attention you have a choice to go a bit deeper and find out how to take the actions suggested below, or may you feel some tasks seem beyond your ability, so book the bike with a bike mechanic.
But I'd encourage you to have a go first.
There are lots of great resources at www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
You may find what seems to be a serious problem with your bike; if in doubt don't ride the bike until the problem has been remedied or investigated by a more experienced person.
1/ Steering headset, Handlebars and Bearings
Hold Front Wheel with knees and perform a twist/ tightness test (see if steering headset stem moves)
then check:
then check:
- Play/ Tightness in the steering head bearings
- Straightness of Steering Head stem
- Tightness of Handlebars in stem clamp
- Handle bars are at a safe angle
- Quill stem does not exceed max height or minimum insertion. This is usually marked somewhere on the quill. (It’s too high if you can see the mark!)
- Threadless stem is installed correctly (eg use of spacers)
2/ Front forks, suspension
Perform a twist/ tightness test and then check:
- Forks are straight with no play in suspension
- For Cracks in the forks/ suspension
- No oil leaks in suspension
- Condition of suspension seals and boot (if fitted)
- Suspension function & performance; this will vary depending on make and design, but at a minimum the shocks should have some bounce, return to normal and not bottom out under reasonable downward pressure.
Lockouts should work if installed and air shocks should be set to the correct pressure for the rider (use a shock pump gauge to check and remedy.)
3/ Front Wheel
Check:
- Wheel is straight (No high spots, dishing or buckling)
- Spokes all intact and similar tension
- Hubs/bearings for play / tightness
- QR (Quick Release) levers or lock nuts are tight, with wheels seated correctly in drop outs.
- Condition of Tyres (look for wear, cracks and seated correctly)
4/ Front Brakes
- All brake types: Check the brakes stop the wheel!
- Rim Brakes -Check:
- Brake Levers have adequate travel and angle (can reach them and they don’t touch the handle bar when pulled.)
Adjust with cable pinch bolt for major adjustments or barrel adjuster for minor adjustments.
For small hands also use the brake level set screw. - Cables run free and replace frayed cables (cables have crimp ends)
- Lightly lube cables with light oil such as Inox M3 (not CRC or WD40!)
- Brake pads and wheel rims for excessive wear.
- Brake pads engage to the rim without touching the tyre or overhanging and a front pad toe-in is ideal
- All bolts are tight
- Lightly lube mechanical parts (avoid getting oil on rim, brake pads, tyres)
- Both pads engage and release equally
- Brake Levers have adequate travel and angle (can reach them and they don’t touch the handle bar when pulled.)
- Hydraulic Disc Brakes - Check:
- Brake Levers travel and angle. Adjust travel screw on brake lever for fine adjustment. In instances of excessive travel, the pads should be replaced and the hydraulics checked/ bled
- For signs of brake fluid leakage
- The Rotors (discs) and pads for wear, heat damage and glazing
- Rotors (discs) have minimal or no lateral movement
- Rotor (disc) screws are tight (use torx tool)
- Alignment of Brake caliper
- Mechanical Disc Brakes - Check:
- Brake Levers travel. Adjust with cable pinch bolt or barrel adjuster. Also check for brake pad wear and the pad adjustment screw.
- Cables run free and replace frayed cables (ensure cables have crimp ends)
- Lightly lube cables with light oil such as Inox M3 (not CRC or WD40!)
- Lightly lube mechanical parts (avoid getting oil on rim, brake pads, tyres)
- Rotors (discs) and pads for wear, heat damage and glazing
- Rotors (discs) have minimal or no lateral movement
- Rotor screws are tight
- Alignment and adjustment of brake calliper
5/ Bike Transmission
Check
- Bottom Bracket Bearing for play/ tightness
- Chain for stretch (use gauge)
- Clean and lube chain with a quality chain lubricant
- Gear Shifters operate smoothly and are at the correct angle.
(Note sticky shifters may be gunked up with old grease and can often be freed by working Inox M3 into the mechanism. ) - Condition of chain wheels and sprockets, including all chain ring bolts tight, teeth straight and moderately worn. Clean teeth if necessary.
- Condition of front and rear derailleur assemblies. Loose or missing screws, and for bent or broken components including the gear hanger. Lightly lube moving parts. Ensure that sprung components return correctly and for binding on moving parts.
- Cables run free and replace frayed cables (ensure cables have crimp ends)
- Lightly lube cables with Inoxa
- Front and rear derailleurs change correctly and adjust if necessary.
- Pedals for play/ tightness and wear
6/ Saddle & Seatpost
Perform a twist/ tightness test and then check:
- Seatpost clamp and quick release tightness
- Does not exceed max height or minimum insertion. This is usually marked on the seatpost. If you can see the marking, the post is too high!
- Condition of seat and clamp, look for damage and stripped clamp threads
- Height, slope and position suits the rider
7/ Rear Wheel
Same as front wheel above with the following additions)
Check:
Check:
- Freewheel functions correctly and sounds “clean”
- Ditto Sturmey Archer Gear hubs, Dynahubs, Nexus etc
- Old style lock nuts are tight and wheel is straight.
- Trainer Wheels (where used) are attached safely and lock nuts have covers
- Pedal Brake lever assembly (if installed) including tightness of nuts and bolts
8/ Rear Brakes
Same as Front Brakes above
9/ General
Check:
- Frame Condition (look for cracks, dents or bent structure)
- All Bolts and nuts are tight
- Components and accessories including mudguards, lights ,computer, drink cages
10/ Road Test
Perform a Road test
Check:
Check:
- Bike Handling. Does it feel safe to ride? Does it drop when cornering? Can you ride no hands?
If it feels funny, check for breaks, twists or bends in the frame or forks.
These can be very subtle and hard to find and may need an experienced mechanic to investigate. - Gears change smoothly,
- Brakes perform safely (stop the bike!)
- Suspension (front and rear) perform adaquately
- No rattles, squeaks or loose parts. (These should be remedied)